Monday, November 1, 2021

 How quickly water levels can change on the Great Lakes.


Most of the Great Lakes continue to have declining water levels recently from the record-high levels over the past few years (2020). The water level decline of Lake Michigan and Lake Huron has been the most amazing.


Remember: Lake Michigan and Lake Huron share the same water level because the lakes are connected by free-flowing water through the Straits of Mackinac where Mackinaw Bridge crosses miles there.   To me, they should be one lake! 


The Mackinac Bridge is the longest suspension bridge in the Western Hemisphere with 7,400 feet of roadway suspended in the air over the straits of Mackinac. Total length of the bridge, including its approaches, is approximately five miles.


The water levels have been gradually increasing on Lake Michigan and Lake Huron since 2014 (record low for two months).   Lakes Michigan-Huron basically peaked last July, 2020, in this recent water level rise. (Record high levels experienced for 8 months!).  Now in the past year, Lake Michigan and Lake Huron have been declining rapidly.


The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers has measured the decline in water levels on Lake Michigan and Lake Huron at 17 inches since July 2020.  One inch of water on Lake Michigan and Lake Huron represents 800 billion gallons of water. Getting out the big-number calculator shows a 17-inch decline is 13.6 trillion gallons of water on Lakes Michigan and Huron.


Having lived on and watched these Great Lakes water levels for most of my life, they still fascinate me!  Natural cycles vs Global Warming (aka Climate Change)?


At least the flooding and damage from the new record high levels has abated.

Wait a few years ... lower or higher?  Only time tells!

 The TWINS Water Pump Saga (as of January 6, 2015)


We anchored out August 20, 2014 in North Lake Worth, the night before arriving at Cracker Boy Boat Works to have Ramsay Marine (Ramsay) do major work on our boat.  That is the last time we had a working freshwater pump on our boat, TWINS, a 60ft Grand Alaskan.


The freshwater pump did not work when reinstalled by Ramsay.  We know that because our delivery captain, Captain Bob, noted it on his inspection of the boating systems after Ramsay was done with our fuel tanks replacement project.  This was Captain Bobs second trip to the boat after his first scheduled trip was aborted after the boat work was not complete as expected based on his communication with Ramsay owners Richard and/or Scott even though it was weeks after their estimated completion date. (See Captain Bob invoice for first delivery attempt)


So Ramsay technician Bruce initially worked with Bob to try and diagnose the problem.  Captain Bob reported to me that the pump was tripping the nearby circuit breaker when they tried to get the pump to operate.  There was power to the breaker!  And the pump shaft would turn.  The pump was not repaired at this time and Captain Bob undertook the delivery back to River Forest (west) without a working freshwater system.  This required an overnight marina stay since they needed water.  (See Captain Bob Expenses)


When I started to evaluate the problem with the water pump, I found that there was no pressure switch in the system.  It had been removed by Ramsay technician Kirk(?) in preparation to do the fuel tank demolition and removal.  I found that the wires to the pressure switch had been cut and taped off.  When I connected these wires, the pump did not run but tripped the switch in the main DC panel at the helm.  I purchased a new pressure switch and hardware since the old one had been discarded.  (See hardware receipt)


After that point, we noticed a number of serious quality issues with the work Ramsay had done.  Two areas of particular concern were a large amount of metal shavings and demolition debris remaining in our bilge and fuel leaking from the top of our port forward tank.  I contacted Richard Ramsay directly about these and other issues, also following up in writing about the specific concerns.  Ramsay subsequently sent technicians Bruce and Kirk out to our boat to address the major concerns we knew about at that time.


Bruce and Kirk worked on a list of items that we had identified.  (See email from December 12, 2014). They made some progress but we still have areas of demolition debris in areas of the bilge, a long term concern for any boater.  (See photographs of current conditions). Unfortunately, they were not able to get the water pump operating.  I purchased additional plumbing parts for them.  (See hardware receipt)


It seems obvious from the electrical indications noted above that there was a wiring issue with the pump reinstallation, before the pressure switch was installed by Ramsay.  In their efforts to get the pump running, the primary fuse was blown three times, first an 80 amp, then two 50 amp fuses.  I ran out to pick up additional fuses.  (See receipt from West Marine). They were never able to get the pump operational and finally pulled the entire assembly out so it could be checked/repaired.


We drove the pump up to Clearwater to Depco pump.  The back end of the motor had been dissembled in attempts to evaluate the wiring.

Depco repaired the pump motor including replacement of the circuit board which had been damaged.  (See Depco work order receipt)


One other serious issue was found when Bruce and Kirk were on the boat.  There was a leaking water line on top of the starboard fuel tank.  This was the water tap line that Ramsay reinstalled to a plate on the tank.  I had picked up a fitting at the request of Kirk who told me that it had a split ferrule.  I assumed that the leak had been fixed!  I was quite surprised to find that fitting still leaking when I went to reinstall the pump.  (See photographs of leak, puddle in corrosion circle, and rivulet over to outboard side of new tank)


I had noticed oily water entering the bilge but thought this water was from a weeping through hull.  We had oil in our bilge from the damaged stabilizer line so I initially thought the oily water was from the lost stabilizer oil.  I now know that the waterline fitting was leaking onto the new tank, then running on the outside of the tank down to the bilge.  As it ran down under the tank and along the stringers, it mixed with leaking diesel fuel from the top of the port forward tank and picked up dirt from the bilge.  This made it look more like brown oil than red fuel.  (See receipt from  Classic Yacht Service for stabilizer hose replacement when on the hard at River Forest and for problem diagnosis and adjustment of starboard stabilizer controls above starboard forward tank when at Cape Harbour Marina)


I have now repaired the leaking water fitting by replacing it.  It was not a cracked ferrule as they are designed that way.  It is a compression type of system.  When repairing this leak, I noticed that one of the water pump mounts was shot.  It would have been nice if someone could have communicated that with me as it could have spared me another trip home for replacement parts.


Yesterday, I replaced the damaged pump mount and installed the pump.  I hooked up the DC power and connected the pressure switch.  The pump would not run!  The first issue I tracked down was the blown fuse that Ramsay had left in place.  After replacing that and checking power to the pump, it still wouldn't run.  It turned out that the new pressure switch installed by Ramsay was wired incorrectly and could not create a closed or open circuit.  I rewired the switch and the pump worked....but would not prime.  At this point I found the non-reinforced hose collapsed flat.  (See picture). Yes, not only did Ramsay use non-potable black rubber Trident Exhaust Hose on our drinking water system, they also failed to use a reinforced hose on the suction side of the pump.  


Yesterday afternoon we went to two marine stores and two hardware stores in Cape Coral trying to find the right hoses for this potable water system.  This morning I finally drove across town to Ft Myers to pick up two pieces of potable water hose to replace the improper hoses that someone from Ramsay installed on our freshwater pump.  


Mr. Ramsay, I started a service company over 25 years ago and grew it rapidly with the help of good employees and systems.  You should take an honest hard look at our experiences with Ramsay.  I don't believe that anyone took ownership of our project.  Was there a single project manager who cared?  It still amazes me that after the tanks were out, it was not properly cleaned or prepped for the new tank install.  Your comment to Captain Bob that basically 'you should have come down to our boat sooner to make sure it was done' could have saved us both time and money.  And then you let our boat sit after launching without making sure everything was operational and done right.  Do you have anybody in charge of Quality Control, the second set of eyes needed by somebody whose job it is to check quality and customer satisfaction?


I have found too many quality issues that should have been caught.  How is it that when I open my generator, the bonding wire is not on the bolt?  How is it that the other end is severed as well?  This is the 8kw generator that was relocated by Ramsay?  I found that the forward starboard tank was not bonded either and the bond wire to the adjacent thru-hull was knocked off.  (See pictures)   There is a long list of minor details (bitches) that reflect poorly on Ramsay.  This includes the glass fuel sight tube protection, one has already been broken during installation of new raw water hoses for our CAT engines and the boarding doors, one of which was ground down to fit after being painted.


Finally, We were assured by Scott that Ramsey would take due care in checking the backsides of our engines when the tanks were out and taking any steps that were needed.  It was presented as routine. This was not done.  I appreciate that Kirk took some time to paint my transmissions, but that was not the backside we talked about.  I have a CAT diesel mechanic coming out today to look at some serious corrosion on the the back side of my port engine.  (See pictures). Note the corroded coolant line and areas that are in obvious need of inspection and paint.  How easy it would have been to deal with when no tanks were there vs the pain in the ass accessing it properly now!


We were referred to you by John Helfrich.  We have worked with them a lot getting our boat ready to cruise.  I think he would confirm that we are not difficult or unreasonable boat owners.  We just expected a professional job done right, within reasonable budget estimates and time frames.  That is not what Ramsay provided us.


Sincerely,

The Quinces.


(Photographs and receipts to follow under separate cover)





 GA story


We met a guy in the Chesapeake last year who had a Grand Alaskan.  He gave us a tour and Vaughn liked the layout and the three berths.  Its kind of like moving from a split level home to a ranch.  Just different designs.  We looked at the GA 53 And the 60.  We picked the 60 because of more room in the back.  The 53 we liked was bought by our friends when they decided they would become liveaboards.  We plan to cruise the Bahamas together.  Both boats are stabilized too.


They say a bigger boat is easier to maneuver.  But they obviously cost more to operate.

Everything costs more with every foot larger.  Draft is not a huge issue if under 5 ft.


SINGLE VS TWIN is a often discussed topic.  Lots of trawlers have a single engine.  If you went single, get bow thruster!


I do prefer the twin engine diesels.  You have the extra engine in case of any problems....engine, transmission, running gear.

We damaged a prop on the Mississippi and had to limit rpm due to vibration.  With the second engine it did not slow us down.  We lost an engine on the St Johns River, fuel problem, but again made it upriver to Jacksonville on the second.  And crossing the Gulf Stream, it was nice to have the second engine confidence.


I would suggest you have protected props, by a keel that is lower than your props.


You should find a lot of two berth boats.  Look for one that has been actively cruised for a while by the owner.  Talk with them!  Everything should be working and well maintained then.  Look at the maintenance records.  You can upgrade some electronics if needed.  AIS is now recommended, particularly for the winding rivers.


The rear area is particularly nice for docking and locking.  Also can help with access to the boat.  A lot of places use finger piers.


Screens are a plus, for hatches, doors and windows.  Also the exterior covers for windows help block the sun, provide daytime privacy and you can still see out.


There are three support groups you can join.  AGLCA is the looper group, pretty focused on doing the loop.   Then MTOA, the marine trawlers group tends to be the US cruising group.  And the free listserve Trawlers and trawlering, a good old boy network of boaters.  Ill send you some of the daily digests.  And a fourth originated by sailors who now embrace the powerboaters is SSCA.


Are you familiar with ActiveCaptain?  Or Eboatcards?

 Touched by Death


I knew not his name but had watched him work on La Corona.

For about three weeks now we had watched the villa renovation across the valley.

A crew of 6 to 10 guys of various ages and skills.  Young, middle and older.

They worked the concrete house, chipping out the old and installing the new.

They moved their scaffolding along the house finally taking off a green screening.

Now they worked a new area, taking off a roof and cutting the walls.

One great column was erected and then another begun.  Mason and Assistant.

I gained interest and used my telescope to watch the mason lay the concrete blocks.

He laid two one way, then two the other, went to get more mortar, then laid more.

I had noted that the first column had been completed now, he worked the second.

There was rebar sticking out of the first and it had been filled with concrete.

This second column was nearly done now, two stories tall, rising rapidly.

I left that side of our house......


Sitting in our patio, we could hear the typical sounds of the day.

Cars running up and down the hill, trucks delivering, the tapping of machinery at the new construction site above us, the sirens of official vehicles.

Later, I returned to the naya by the pool and noticed lights flashing across the way.

I thought it odd that the construction vehicles had twin flashing lights.

Then I noticed lots of people down at the pool of the construction site.

Calling Vaughn, I said "looks like there has been an accident across the way."

There were ambulance workers in orange, local police in yellow backed uniforms, guardia civil who seemed very young, and onlookers on the road above the house.

The ambulance team seemed to be administering to a man on the ground.  

The police seemed to be in different quarters, kind of odd.

As we watched they hooked up sensors to the body, made a printout.

The body was covered by a sheet, a definitive statement.


I was somewhat sure that this had been the mason I was watching just an hour before.

But what had happened?  Apparently a fall off the scaffolding.....

Nicholas arrived and for the next three hours we watched the accident scene.

Death at close range creates an unsettling feeling.

The ambulance packed up and left.  Some of the police left.

The work crew stayed, sequestered in the house or above.

Two older local police and the two young Guardia Civil stood watch.

Various people arrived and we speculated who, out of range.

The builder, family or friends, distraught and weeping.

The body remained untouched, but the story was told by the Guardia.

Pointing up to the scaffolding, a stain in the corner of the terrace a few paces away.

And oddly the seemed to point away from the scaffolding as well.

The hearse arrived, rear doors flung open, and awaiting....


But still the scene evolved.....

Now another official, a detective?  Taking the tour and taking pictures, measurements.

And finally another group of people under police escort.

And a woman, apparently the medical examiner.....

Another tour of the scene, removal of the sheet and examination of the body.

Examination of the front, the back, hands, feet, the shoes, the gloves.

Various discussions in various groups, seemingly distraught and perplexed.

The body finally bagged and carried up all the steps to the hearse.

Slow dispersal, hand shaking, the workers there until the end.

The house is sealed, darkness envelopes.....

Dead and Gone


Now a day later, no work was done today at the work site.

Police returned, more measurements taken.

That same strange feeling knowing of a death so near.

Every time we go through the naya door, we see the vacant house.

A news report about the incident in spanish is of an electrocution!

The wires next to the property are apparently what was being pointed to.

We still speculate..... A length of rebar, two stories tall?

Examination of hands and feet, gloves and shoes.

Those three wires by that villa, lead up next to our villa!

The same wires that my younger brother Brian touched over 40 years ago.

His burned fingers and legs from the electric arc.

His luck with a ride to hospital, not the morgue.





 We love to anchor out!


As a cruising boater it is embarrassing to me to see the many derelict boats in Florida.  We have seen many...power boats and sailboats, sunken sail boats where we only see a mast sticking out of the water, power boats without obvious propulsion, boats that have obviously not been maintained for months with severe bottom growth and velcro lines, boats listing and ready to sink, boats growing vegetation above the waterline, boats that have turned in the tide so many times that Alexander the Great could not undue the knotted lines attached to their anchor!  I have many pictures having navigated almost the entire Florida coastline.

 

This may well be the root cause of the real concern for many Florida communities and restricting the anchoring rights of cruising boaters would be an unintended consequence.  The legislature of Florida really needs to focus their efforts on dealing with derelict boats and not impair the rights of many boaters who simply need a place to anchor for a day or three as they travel the Public Trust Waterways of the State of Florida or have need of a safe anchorage before continuing a trip to the Bahamas from points in SE Florida.


Existing laws should be used or modified to strongly address the derelict boat issue.  Enforcement to address the derelict issue is needed, not new laws that will restrict the rights of cruising boaters to use the Public Trust Waterways as the have since the first use of boats!


Please note that the FWC study specifically included a reference excluding live aboard vessels......"explore potential options for regulating the anchoring or mooring of vessels (other than live-aboard vessels) outside the marked boundaries of public mooring fields."  Is that being taken into account?  Are we unintentionally going restrict the many cruising boaters who travel the waters of our state when the issue is the derelict boats?

                    Getting Past Deja Vu


What a long strange trip it’s been?  We have come full circle after many physical and emotional whirlwinds.  It is your friends that make your life.


It was over three years ago that we were stationed at a nice floating dock in Bimini ready for the jump to the Berry Islands Chain in the Bahamas.  It was a free dock that a friend had let us use ( Thanks Fred! )and we had full access to the Resort World Complex on North Bimini Island and their wonderful infinity pool overlooking the Gulf Stream.  On our last days in Bimini and the Bahamas we watched from the pool as our good boating friends Bob and Pam cruised past going north on Mint Julep headed east for Great Harbour Marina where we had a scheduled month’s stay docked with the Active Captain boating group.


Much like today we were fully loaded with dreams of skipping through the Cays of the Bahamas and loose plans of anchoring in Bombay Gin clear waters visiting deserted white sand beaches in remote Island Chains like the Eleuthera’s and the Exumas.  A world away from it all meeting old and making new cruising friends.


But, no!  There we were suddenly headed west across the Gulf Stream again!  We had been jolted from paradise by phone calls from our business manager and the bank we’d had for 17 years ..... the business was not going to make payroll and the bank was tapped out.  We later understood that we were in “workout”, a process where you are squeezed until they have all their money back and then even extract more!  So we entered those dark middle ages of a near business bankruptcy.


That drama ended last year with the sale of our business to the employees, now 100 percent owned by the ESOP Trust we set up years ago with the intention of employee ownership.  That culmination included untold twists and turns with the shit sandwiches that life sometimes provides, like it or not!


After two weeks in that Bimini slice of paradise, we paid our total bill at the resort which was $ 28.17  (yes, electricity for two weeks, we never even took on water!). And then we ran back to Stuart 124 miles, then another day of 90 miles to dock at River Forest near LaBelle and fly home to Michigan and deal with a growing mess.  Our cruising lifestyle was grounded.


Now here we are today again cruising, getting ready to take a dock at Great Harbour Marina and clear customs.  That action was delayed by some 1143 days give or take some hours.  We are now loaded with fuel, food and drink ‘till the hurricanes force us home or homesickness sets in and the need for family and friends again prioritizes.  


As we left Bimini in 2015, we had no home nor family living in Michigan.  Our daughter Sara was in Tennessee and son Matt in Florida.  The power of friendships surfaced again as we found ourselves on the vacant 29th floor condo of the Plaza Towers in downtown Grand Rapids thanks to good dirt friends Lewie and Teresa.  I have often told this story of friendship, that at the depth of that desperate period we were living in a 3 bedroom luxury suite with a panoramic south view and driving an AWD Mercedes sedan in the snow!  Yes, it could have been much worse.


We had spent our time working our way around south Florida and enjoyed the Keys from Marathon and on up to a favorite stop at Boca Chit Key, an old concrete basin built by Honeywell and now a National Park.  We left new friends on Nazdar and Mystic Lady, two boats we had linked up with also headed to the Berry Islands for the AC rendezvous.  In an odd circle of time, as we headed into the River Forest canal this year, there was Nazdar docked at their new dirt berth, fixing up an old Florida property to serve as their land base.  The now have Vaughn’s old gold BMW X5 too!


Fixing up old stuff is part of our DNA.  TWINS is another example, but mostly unanticipated.  It’s a boat and since our run back from Bimini it’s had work done all over from stem to stern.  Rebuilt windlass damaged in Marathon, rebuilt bow thruster just old, rebuilt hoist heat stressed in storage, rebuilt head from the cherry pits, new shafts due to leaking seals, new generator batteries, a new 30gpm watermaker self installed, new dingy and chocks, and even new stern thruster’s to boot.  We definitely know the “B O A T” definition and the “hole in the water” adage. 


Part of our therapy to deal with the near dark age was fixing up old condo’s.  Although we were regularly emotionally drained dealing with the business downsizing, turnaround, employees and the refinancing process, we needed physical punishment too.  We bought one of the first condo’s sold at the Towers, a unit on the 15th floor that had been owned by our friend Lewie.  We commenced to a wall to wall remodel converting it from a 2br to a 1br executive.  We outstayed our welcome with Lewie and Teresa on the 19th for sure!


We just completed renovation of our third condo in three years and put it up for sale.  Enough is enough?  We bought and renovated a second condo at the Towers, a two floor unit overlooking the river from the 17th and 18th floors.  Our first condo sold quickly and we ended up living in a construction site as we demolished and renovated the place.  Luckily we had done another condo reno in Ludington done the year before which gave us a place for the long weekends away from work and Grand Rapids.  Yes, its near the Pitsch’s condo and close to Lewie’s family.  We have also visited with both our new Ludington neighbors with while in Florida.


Life is full of perspectives.  Misery can be life, suffering should be optional.  Without stormy times, do you appreciate the calm waters?  Yesterday started out with many hours of calm waters crossing the Great Bahama Bank.  Crystal clear waters watching the bottom glide by.  Sunny and calm.  The storm clouds threatened from the north, the north winds changed quickly, sooner than anticipated, the waves built, but our course was set and with no turning back, we veered into beam seas that kicked our asses.  Three hours to go.  It is the first time we have had to lock our cabinets and hold on. As the winds clocked to the northeast, the waves lessened and the roll was diminished enough to reduce the white of the knuckles for the last hour of a 90 mile day.


We worked our way into the lee side of Rat Cay for protection from 20mph winds and snuggled in for a calm evening recounting the day and past similar experiences.  We sure do know life can be placid one moment and tumultuous the next.


Make some lemonade and enjoy the sandwiches.  

Grandkids ain’t so bad neither.  


Knee deep in the water somewhere......


https://youtu.be/UJbG7256ZLY

 Life on TWINS 

5-15-18


This Second Leg of our Bahamas trip has been windier than expected and finding less roll (ocean swells) protection in the anchorages than we like.  Today we are finally in a nice hole and expect to be here a week (or more?) as the weather forecast predicts another week of high winds, 15-25knots.  Today hours has been a series of lightening, thunder and rainstorms.  A monsoon to us.  So it should only get better....


This island, Prime Cay, is about 2/3’s of the way down the Exumas chain.  The entrance was done at high tide, at 9am, since the entrance area is charted at only 1 meter depth.  We came in to this protected hole at 1.1 foot above mean for the first high tide of the day without any issues finding 9 feet to anchor in with lots of room.  The bottom is sand and forgiving, hopefully!  We will sound it out with the dingy once the storms pass.


Like too many islands in The Bahamas this one is private having been bought by an electrical contractor from California.  It’s one of a number of Islands (cays) they purchased.  They plan to develop the nearby island into a resort investing $75 million and are already running bulldozers over it for a golf course.


On the other side of us is Goat Cay, developed by Tim McGraw and Faith Hill as their getaway resort.  Not to mention David Copperfields place we passed yesterday (rentable for $50,000 a day) or Jonny Depps Island before that.  It is definately changing the face of “cruising the remote islands”.


We seem to have provisioned to avoid any shortages of either alcohols or foods.  As usual, we make a meal often having leftovers to accumulate into interesting meals.  But we do eat well.  The freezers are still loaded!


Our fresh food gardening experiment has worked pretty well.  I planted a bin of lettuce seeds before leaving from 4 different variety seed packs, so maybe 20 different kinds of edible greens.  As they came up I did some transplanting and have been able to have a lot of fresh salads.  I’ve already replanted the lettuce bins twice.  Next trip we’ll add some spinach to the mix.


Onboard we have yellow grape tomatoes, cherry tomatoes and a larger variety, the last one planted which has yet to give us a red fruit...three green fruit are in process.  Parsley, sage, rosemary, & thyme are growing for herbs along with two large basil plants and one chives.  I cut the chives down and plant romaine lettuce alongside.


TV has been working fine and I’m getting my nightly fix of the Stanley Cup Playoffs via satellite service.  Tampa and Las Vegas?  That balances out the regular maintenance, replacing parts and changing oils.


One of the best additions on TWINS has been the reverse osmosis watermaker.  We make water every 3-5 days and at 30 gallons per hour it gives more water than needed running about 3 hours.  We wash stuff regularly actually wasting water.  It is totally the opposite of previous cruising where we lived miserly lives of conservation!


But the miserly life is ingrained.  After 45 days out, we have only been to a marina one night.  That was to check into customs, get our cruising permit and give them $300 for the privilege. We have picked up a mooring ball a couple of times in the Exumas Land & Sea Park though and joined them as a support fleet member, financially supporting conservation and clearing some trails.


Picture us knee deep in the water somewhere, beach-combing for shells, driftwood and sea glass.....enjoying the sandwiches and itinerant life.